Oct 16, 2010

Maze by Gordon Ramsay

Mmmm. Pardon the pun. Maze was great, but not yet quite "amazing". But what a palate cleanser after the Rambling debacle!

Following the gravy train (oh no pun again!) of London Restaurant Festival, I went recently to have a girly lunch at Maze. The decor here seems best suited to a business lunch, strict, beige, and not particularly charming.

But the festival menu was a delight, and with four minidishes to taste from, enough to get a real sense of what this kitchen has to offer.

I began with a hearty plate of ham hock rilletes,accompanied by a cress and green apple salad, red onions and quail eggs. Delicious.

This was then followed by a roast poussin breast and leg, maple jelly and sweetcorn risotto. The meat was perfectly cooked, the flavours understated, and the risotto so creamy and sweet I could have gorged on bucketfulls.

I then moved on to a rump of salt marsh lamb, fennel, samphire and sorrel cress. Salty and sweet in just the right measure.
This was all concluded with a pistachio cake, kentish raspberries, pistachio crumble.

Overall, the food was impeccably prepared, the staff courteous, and the wine list comprehensive. The restaurant seems to truly value local and seasonal ingredients, and the preparation is restrained. But perhaps also a bit too safe, the combinations always classic, if a bit unoriginal. I would have appreciated a touch of recklessness.


Maze Gordon Ramsay
10 - 13 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP

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